• The Hacker Issue

    Dress like a Deconstructionist in 2016

    The Hacker Issue
    Deconstructionism featureart

    Phoebe English, HBA, and KTZ drew inspiration from 90s deconstructionism in their SS16 shows during New York Fashion Week

    En Rogue

    Not Quite Finished or Already Taken Apart?

    Not quite finished or already taken apart?

    Last week in New York, models dressed in Hood by Air walked the runway in clothes with hanging strings, a strapped bodysuit with fabric only covering the model’s front, wide splits in the shoulders, and garments so draped they near fell off the models walking in them. As outfits with not-quite-pieced-together status, their construction might have appeared to be an afterthought, and certainly impractical by any modern standards.
    This is because grunge designs like those presented in Spring 2016 by HBA – and similarly at Phoebe English and KTZ – are not modern, but rooted in 90s fashion ideologies. They harken back to deconstructionist fashion, a movement created by 90s’ estranged and broke designers of London and Antwerp. Designers in 2015 are revisiting a mentality that rejects previously defined forms of fashion, much like deconstructionist art rebelled against the standardization of creative expression.
    Deconstructionism in fashion relies heavily on a creative middle ground, where clothing is purposely left looking unfinished, in movement, and mid-construction. It signifies the dismantling of fashion ideology and proves that fashion can exist even after its shapes and social expectations have been completely destroyed. 


    Quite literally a translation of construction sites, KTZ’s runway designs were assembled by fabric resembling materials used to create buildings, not clothing. Through paper-box-like dresses, ensembles decorated in caution signs and netting, KTZ’s typical club kid appeal remained intact but close as ever to the ethos of the infamous party-goers: always evolving and making new forms out of previously unheard of deconstructions.


    Amidst suspended dresses (sometimes hung low enough to prove revealing and thus a complete destruction of the clothes’ functions) and straps positioned over body parts like black censor bars, Hood by Air’s most appropriate modernization of deconstructionism was in the makeup. In an attempt to reveal (or mock) today’s contour craze, the models at HBA were slapped with the same light and dark patches of foundation et al. that would act as the base for buffing a perfectly geometric and light-catching face. Models walked the runway with unblended and unfinished makeup by today’s standards, stripping away the tediousness of this Kardashian-inspired beauty practice to reveal how ridiculous it just might be.

    Phoebe English

    At Phoebe English, we saw pieces of fabrics sitting atop finished designs, their purpose not entirely clear. Were they a part of the finished garment, or did fabric exist below it? Whether or not they acted as adornment or a solid part of the finished product, the portions of frayed and tied together clothes were, in practice, a hint of the constant construction that goes into our textile goods.

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